Wondering if you need to go “with the grain” or “against the grain” when you’re shaving or dermaplaning? The answer depends on a few factors:
-
The type of hair you’re removing
-
How sensitive your skin is
-
What tool or device you’re using
We’ll break it down here…keep reading to find out the best direction for you.
What does "with the grain" mean in shaving?
Before we start, we wanted to clarify what “with the grain” and “against the grain” mean. Shaving with the grain means that you’re moving in the same direction your hair grows. Shaving against the grain means that you’re moving in the opposite direction.
How can you tell which direction your hair is growing?
With terminal hair (which is the type of hair that grows on a woman’s legs or a man’s face), it’s easy. Let your hair grow back for a few days and run your fingers over it. If it feels smooth, you’re going with the grain. If it feels rough, you’re going against the grain.
Now, when it comes to the hair on a woman’s face, it’s a different story. Women’s facial hair is different from men’s. It’s known as “vellus hair” (aka peach fuzz) and usually feels smooth no matter what direction you run your fingers over it. You may need to look at your facial fuzz in a magnifying mirror or use the “credit card test” to see what direction it’s growing.
Grab a credit card in a dark color (like black or navy) and gently run it over an area of your face. If you can’t see any peach fuzz on the edge of the card, you’re going with the grain. If your peach fuzz stands up and you can see it on the card, you're going against the grain.
What's the best direction to shave the hair on your legs?
Experts say if you’re shaving your legs and you have sensitive skin, it’s best to go with the grain. If you don’t have sensitive skin, you can go against the grain. To reduce the risk of irritation or razor burn on your legs: Use a new razor blade, make sure your skin is warm and damp, and use a generous amount of shaving cream. This helps “condition the skin and soften the hair follicle,” Dr. Marina Peredo, assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mourn Sinai Hospital in New York City, explained to SELF.
What's the best direction to dermaplane your face?
Since the vellus hair on a woman’s face is so fine and soft (unlike terminal hair), you can dermaplane in any direction that works for you. But if you have very sensitive skin, exerts do recommend going with the grain. “If you have very sensitive skin, going with the grain tends to be better,” explains licensed esthetician Billie Jo Bond.
DERMAFLASH LUXE+ was specially designed to allow you to maneuver in whatever direction works best for you. Because the device has a high-level sonic vibration, it glides over your face smoothly and easily, with minimal pressure. This means you’re not causing irritation like you would with a manual razor.
The other big difference is that sonic dermaplaning is always done on clean, dry skin. “Any oil on your skin’s surface can actually tamp down peach fuzz and make it more difficult to remove,” explains Bond.
Should you dermaplane upward or downward?
“I like to move towards hair that I want to keep,” explains Jorie Fieldman, DERMAFLASH’s Head of Training and Education. “So around the ear and jaw, I like to go up towards my hairline. When I Flash my forehead, I separate it into two sections. For the lower section I'll go down towards my eyebrows, and for the upper section I flip the device around and go up towards my hairline. That way I just have a little bit more visibility and you’re not going to take off any hair that you want to keep.”
Check out more of Jorie’s tips here and watch her YouTube video for a full demo!
