Retinol can be a tricky ingredient. For some people, this anti-aging ingredient can help maintain healthy, youthful-looking skin. But for others, it can be too harsh—or not recommended at all. We’ll dive into the reasons why retinol might not work for you and offer some retinol alternatives‚ so you can get the results you’re looking for—even if retinol is a no-go for you.
How does retinol work?
Retinol works by penetrating the outermost layer of your skin (aka the stratum corneum) and converting to retinoic acid, where it stimulates cellular turnover and supports collagen production. Retinol is part of a larger group of ingredients known as “retinoids,” which include retinyl palmitate, retinol and retinaldehyde (which are all available over the counter) and Retin-A (which requires a doctor's prescription).
What does retinol do for your skin?
If your skin tolerates it, retinol can help reduce the look of wrinkles, fade the appearance of dark spots and even out skin texture. “The tricky thing is you have to find the right formulation and strength and allow your skin to build a tolerance to retinol products by introducing them slowly into your skin care regime,” explains licensed master esthetician Billie Jo Bond.
Who can't use retinol?
Anyone who’s pregnant or breastfeeding: All topical retinoids (whether it’s a prescription cream like Retin-A or a moisturizer with retinol) are derived from Vitamin A. Because excess amounts of Vitamin A can be harmful to your baby’s development, doctors recommend avoiding all retinoids during this time.
Anyone with sensitive or compromised skin: If you have very sensitive skin—or if you have a compromised skin barrier due to a skin condition like rosacea or eczema—topical retinoids may be too irritating and can worsen your existing condition.
Anyone with a sunburn (or who can’t commit to proper sun protection): Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to the sun. If you already have a sunburn, or you find it tough to get in the habit of using a daily sunscreen, it’s best to avoid this ingredient.
Retinol should also be avoided if your skin is healing from a dermatological procedure or if you’re planning to remove facial hair. Experts recommend that you stop using retinol for at least 48 hours before dermaplaning. And if you wax your facial hair, it’s recommended to stop using retinol at least 7-10 full days before your appointment.
What can I use instead of retinol?
If you're looking for alternatives to retinol, there’s never been a better time. With so many advancements in skincare technology and product formulation, retinol is no longer the only “gold standard” anti-aging ingredient. Here are 3 alternatives to retinol, which will help you get the smoother texture and more even-toned skin you’re looking for.
3 proven retinol alternatives
1. Sonic Dermaplaning
What it does: Boosts cellular turnover, improves skin texture and tone
Exfoliating with LUXE+ Sonic Dermaplaning just once a week stimulates cellular turnover and supports collagen production. You’ll notice smoother skin texture after just one use, and with regular weekly use, your skin tone and texture will keep improving. Because sonic dermaplaning is a chemical-free form of exfoliation, it’s safe for anyone who’s pregnant or nursing, and it’s also gentle enough for those with sensitive skin. As a bonus, sonic dermaplaning also removes dead skin cells and pesky peach fuzz that can stand in the way of proper skincare absorption—so the products you're investing in will work better.
2. Peptides
What they do: Reduce the look of fine lines and wrinkles
If retinol is causing your skin too much irritation, peptides could be the skin-smoothing alternative you’re looking for. Peptides send “signals” to your skin cells telling them to produce more collagen and elastin, which gives your skin its strength and structure. “Peptides are one of the most effective ingredients to incorporate into your skincare routine,” explains Bond. “They help plump up wrinkles and give your skin a youthful bounce, and even people with very sensitive skin can tolerate them.”
3. Nicinamide
What it does: Helps fade dark spots and hyperpigmentation
Niacinamide is a form of vitamin B3 that reduces the appearance of existing dark spots and helps prevent new ones from forming. In addition, it helps to support your skin’s barrier function. When used together, niacinamide and peptides can give you noticeable smoothing, firming and brightening results in just a few weeks—without the risk of irritation. We formulated our HYDRAFLASH Active Cocooning Serum with both ingredients for maximum benefits in one bottle.
The bottom line? If you can’t use retinol, don’t stress—you have gentle and proven options that deliver the results you want, without the irritation.
